Harem Pants/SCA Pants
Approx. 2.5 yards Fabric
Lay your fabric out on the table, folded in half lengthwise along the grain. It ususally comes pretty close to this from the store, so you can usually just make sure your edges meet at the side if you are working with something soft. Try to make sure it’s got a straight grain across – no twists or wrinkles that go diagonal. (If you pull ONE thread real slowly, and carefully gather it across the fabric width, you will have a line left over that shows the exact straight of grain. Cut along this.) Cut the top edge straight if it isn’t already, at a right angle to the edge/ on the straight of grain.(Personally, I usually just snip in a half inch at the top, and rip across the fabric, as this ALWAYS makes a stright grain edge.)
Measure from the top of your waist to the bottom of your ankle. Let the tape bag over your ankle as much as you want the pants to bag, then add 2" for top and bottom hems. This is your pants legnth. I often just add 6-10"to this on mine for ‘swish’.
Measure down the inside of your leg from crotch to ankle. Add a couple inches for ease. This is your inseam measurement.
Measure from your front waistband (in sweats or other comfortably loose pants down between your legs to the center waistband in back, and add a few inches. This is your crotch measurement.
1A - Harem pants, fuller and often longer than SCA pants -
At the edge side, measure down the fabric edge the length of your pants legnth measurement. Mark this. Measure from the bottom of of this back UP, the legnth of your inseam, and cut half of a 'U' shape from that mark up to the top open (cut/torn) edge at least 5 inches wide - it should be approximately 8-10 inches deep, and at least half your crotch measurement. If not, you can enlarge it by either moving the 'inseam' down a few inches, (this will also legnthenthe pants in gerneal) or by cutting the crotch 'half U' wider/rounder - just make sure the bottom of the 'half U' makes a right angle to the side /edge of the fabric. See 1A
This will be your crotch seam.
Once you have your crotch worked out, measure back down the inseam. Cut straight across the fabric from this. It helps to move the tape over a few inches and cut to your mark, then move again. This will be the bottom of your pants leg. Repeat this.
1B-For less full pants/ SCA men's pants or pants with narrower legs -
I STRONGLY reccomend making a paper pattern instead of cutting directly on your fabric for this. I wrote this as "on the fabric", becuse few people adhere to this advice, but it will be easier to make your changes, etc, on paper, and you will have a good pattern for more pants if they come out really well - always easier than trying to lay out sewn up pants as a pattern to cut from. If you do make a pattern, just do the same steps on it that you would do on the fabric - read 'on the fold' to mean 'on this side of the paper' etc.
Measure around your hips, and add 4-8 inches, depending on your size, for seam allowance, ease of wearing and dressing. Divide this by 4.
This is your waist measurement.
Decide how wide you want your pants legs, and add at least 1" for seam allowance. This is your pants leg width measurement.
At the top edge of the fabric at the fold, measure across the legnth of your waist measurement. Mark this. This will be the waist of your pants.
Measure down the fabric edge the length of your pants legnth measurement. Mark this. Measure at a right angle out from this the legnth of your pants width measurement.
Measure from the bottom of of this back UP at an angle towards the selvage edge, the legnth of your inseam, See 1B and mark this.
Draw half of a wide 'U' shape from that mark up to the waist - it should be at least half your crotch measurement. See 1 This will be your crotch seam. You can adjust this (enlarge or reduce it) by moving the 'inseam' point up or down a few inches, or the crotch 'point' in or out (careful-this can also shorten or legnthen the pants in general) or by cutting the crotch 'half U' wider/rounder - but try to be sure the crotch point (point between crotch and inseam) makes a right angle or as close to it as possible. Also, try not to make the crotch seam too big, or your inseam may hang down between your knees!
If you will be dancing in these, or doing lots of running, kicking, high activity, etc, you will want to make the movement ease' line/legnth wider - this means tilting the crotch point farther out from the fold side, and making the inseam longer.
Once you have your crotch seam worked out, measure back down the inseam and check your mark. Adjust this as you need to. They are your pants you can do what makes them most comfortable for you!
Cut out the pants leg along your marks. You can lay this first peice on top of your next peice of fabric as a pattern if you have not made a paper pattern, if you are careful - fabric shifts, and can really alter the shape of your next piece if you don't keep the grain stright or it has a wrinkle, etc.
Lay your pieces out on a flat space so that you can see their shapes and sizes You should have two pieces the same length as your measurement.
- Legs -Take one of the two leg pieces, fold it so that the right (pretty/outside/satin/printed/etc) side of the fabric is inside, (colored here as the dark side) match up your edges making sure the crotch lines up, and sew/surge the long edges together to make inside leg seams. Do the same thing with the other piece. See 2
- Open the Legs, so that the crotch openings make a whole 'U' shape in front of you. Put the right sides of the fabric at the crotch openings together so that the top edges and the leg seams match up. (You can tie the loose threads from the seams together to help hold them inplace as well as pins.) The edges should lay together if they are the same size. Sew them together to make the crotch seam and if you are not using a serger, double the seam and zig-zag the raw egde. See 3
- Hems – Serge all around the leg bottoms, and around the waist opening (or fold raw edge over about 1/4 inch). Fold over between 1/2 inch to 1 inch on them all, and stitch down, leaving about 1 inch open next to a seam to insert elastic. See 4
- Insert Elastic into the waist and legs where it’s folded over. See 5